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  • The new Esker Arts Centre at no. 13 High Street, Tullamore. A contribution to the Living in Towns series by Offaly History. Blog No 468, 1st March 2023

    So we are soon reaching the day when the new Esker Arts Centre building will open in Tullamore. Is it the first public building since 2013 and the new bridges on the canal. Before that we had the town library (2011), the regional hospital, the town park, bypass, courthouse and the swimming pool. When Revd Dean Craig performed the opening ceremony for the newly built courthouse in June 1927 (after its burning in 1922) he could not remember when such an opening had taken place of a public building and that stretched back to his father’s coming to Tullamore in 1869. So these openings are important and give rise to a good deal of pleasure, pride in our place and hope for the future.

    The arts in Tullamore was never a strong point when compared with towns like Birr and Athlone. That is in the past and we now look forward to a programme of events for 2023 and beyond. The arts centre project in Tullamore has gone through vicissitudes since it was first planned in the 2000s and dropped as late as 2014 when the budget was too high but less than it is today. . Now the new building is in the former Kilroy’s store in High Street and not in Kilbride Park as was once intended. Before that the library district was considered in a €20 million plan that was dropped after 2007. In its style, as to the exterior, the new arts center bears more resemblance to the Wexford opera house (2010). Unlike the great local public buildings, such as the courthouse (1835-1922-1927-2007) or the jail of 1830 (destroyed in 1922 by the retreating Republicans during a disastrous civil war) the new arts centre is built on the site of a shopping precinct since the 1880s and earlier.

    The pavements were not great but the buildings were so fine. Bank of Ireland front of 1870 (now Hoey & Denning) and Ulster Bank (1890s). The Kilroy front was c. 1880.

    The now arts building occupied three generations of the Kilroy family in the years 1908-2007. It was a great hardware store and early made a reputation that was consolidated under the young Dermot Kilroy whose coming into full management of the business coincided with the start-up of RTE Television. He and his father, James A. and son Derry Kilroy were all master marketeers – something that will not be lost on the news arts administration whose job it will be to make the new Esker Arts Centre a viable and attractive proposition. And no doubt it can be.

    The new arts centre is in Tullamore central with a strong location in the High Street where so much business was done in the past and good parking in public and private carparks nearby. No doubt it will have coffee and liquor facilities. It would make sense to secure the adjoining Ulster Bank building if the bank would be disposed to sell at a reasonable price in recognition of its contribution to Tullamore since 1893. We say this because the bank and Kilroy’s (now the arts centre) were part of one property from the 1800s and had a common landlord in the Crofton family, long associated with Tullamore. Their main home was at Merryfield – a lost demesne on the site of what is now Charleville Lake (1809-12), but they also had 29 High Street (from the 1930s the Roberts garage).

    The old shop front was considered the finest in Tullamore in the 1880s. This picture possibly about 1957 with J.A. Kilroy at the shop entrance. The Carragher pharmacy appears to be under renovation.
    (more…)
    March 1, 2023

  • Impressions of an Ireland Dream. De Jean Frazer, T.C. Luby and a Birr book launch. By Laurel Jean Grube. Blog No 467, 25th Feb 2023

    I dreamed of someday going to Ireland and exploring my ancestry. But I am afraid to fly; not only because of feeling trapped in a plane high in the sky over the ocean but because of the pain I have experienced in my ears on domestic flights.

    Can you believe it, this past November my husband got me on an airplane? And it did not require knocking me out. Just painkillers, nasal spray, decongestant, chewing gum, hard candies, a small teddy bear to clutch, and a prescription for an anxiety pill, nothing drastic. The ear pain was still present, and the nervous shaking was only subdued by continuous prayer.

    This was my first trip outside the United States, and I was pleasantly surprised by the warmth of the people of Ireland.

    We took this journey to launch a book I co-edited with two gentlemen from Dublin, Terry Moylan, and Padraig Turley. I met them through the internet when double-checking a fact about my ancestor, John De Jean Frazer, for the novel I am writing about him and his son-in-law, Thomas Clarke Luby.

    Terry and Padraig were starting a book to republish the poems of Frazer, my third great-grandfather. My novel includes some of those poems and I had wanted to honor him myself and bring him out of the cobwebs and into the light. I was happy to accept the invitation to join these gentlemen on an eye-opening adventure.

    (more…)
    February 25, 2023

  • Daingean GAA Club experience lean times during the revolutionary years, 1913–23. By Sean McEvoy. Decade of Centenaries Series. Blog No 466, 22nd Feb 2023

    The Country is currently celebrating and remembering what have become popularly known as the Revolutionary years or Era spanning the timescale 1913–23. These years witnessed the formation of the Irish Volunteers in 1913, the Howth gun running in 1914, as well as the Easter Rising, the growth of Sinn Féin and the formation of the first Dáil in 1919. The events of this time are finally capped off with the War of Independence (1919–21), the signing of the Irish Treaty in December 1921, and the calamitous Civil War (1922–23) which followed during this period also, the Great War (1914–918) and the Spanish flu epidemic had varying degrees of impact on the life of the country. There is no doubt that this train of events combined had a great impact on almost all GAA clubs then in existence. Some clubs fared better than others for example during the years in question Killeigh captured two senior football titles while Rhode who had won only one title to date, captured three in six years. For Daingean however these years brought no titles in any grade.

    These lean years for the clubs are surprising as Daingean had captured its first junior title in 1908 and their first senior title the following year. However, despite these successes the team broke up quite quickly. During the early years of the GAA player loyalty to clubs was not as entrenched as it is today. Clubs often were formed one year and would simply disappear the next. After Daingean lost the 1910 junior final to Banagher that was played in 1911, a number of players John Buckley and Peter Brazil left to line out with the new clubs formed in Ballycommon shortly afterwards. Daingean fielded no senior team in the championship from 1912 to 1927 and did not even field a junior side in 1912 and 1913. Meanwhile the new club in Ballycommon had early success capturing the junior Title in 1913 and reached the senior final the following year only to lose out to Ferbane. The success or failure of clubs at this time could often hinge on the death of a key player or official in this regard. The unexpected death of the club’s junior captain Denis Flanagan in 1912 left the club bemoaning the loss of an on­- field leader. Throughout 1913 the local correspondent to the King’s County Independent newspaper made a number of references to the poor state of the clubs. In August that year he lamented  ‘that we have already referred on more than one occasion to the great scarcity that exists in Philipstown at the present time of any sort of amusement, and the wonder if where there is such splendid material at hand, no attempt is made to organise a football or hurling club’.

    The same correspondent kept up his pressure for the rest of 1913 and by April, the following year, the club had been revived again on a proper footing with Denis Gorman as president, John Harte as secretary and Nicholas Bolger as treasurer. There official wisely decided to plate the emphasis on developing a new young team based on juvenile sides that had emerged in the parish between 1911 and 1913. Surprisingly these teams had emerged at a time when adult teams in the club were struggling or not fielding at all (as pointed out earlier) and the new juvenile teams emerged at a time long before proper underage competitions would be organised countywide in the late 1920s. Prominent players on these sides included J. Reilly, J. Harte, C. Hayes, J. Walshe, James E. Greene, P. Lynch and Joe Quinn. A nice combination of these young players and some veterans

    From the earlier years saw the junior side reach the 1915 final which took place in Rahan the following year against Cloghan. This was a bruising encounter that Daingean lost by the slimmest of margins and club’s supporters (possibly unfairly) felt that stricter referring may have altered the outcome. The club did lodge an objection to the ref’s final report to the county board and subsequently brought an appeal to the Leinster Council. This appeal was to be heard at the council’s last meeting in Dublin just before Christmas 1916 but no Daingean delegates turned up and the matter was dropped.

     Rather than building on the progress made in 1915, the years 1916 to 1923 were some of the leanest in the club’s history. There are a number of reasons for this, starting with the departure of James O’Quigley a national teacher who had come to the town in the early years of the twentieth century. He can be best described as a typical Irish Irelander from this era and was dedicated member of the GAA, Gaelic league and the Irish Volunteers O’Quigley was the man behind the formation of a hurling club in the town and he was also behind the revival of the game of handball. In the latter case the promoted the game by staging an annual tournament among the school children that grew in popularity from 1908. On his departure to Mayo in 1916, the club made to him a special presentation of a suitably inscribed walking stick for his services rendered to the club. His loss to the club in relation to his administration and organisational skills really is difficult to calculate beyond saying that it came at a time when his guidance was probably most needed. This can be especially seen in the club’s lack of effort to promote hurling again until the 1920s. In fact in 1916, the club actually donated its stock of camáns for a north Offaly hurling team that played against a small Offaly selection in support if the National Aid Association Tournament held in Ballyduff  park in September 1916. Such tournaments were held to support the families of those who lost members fighting in the Easter Rising or members of families who had relation arrested in the aftermath. Sadly this rather generous gesture by the club in Daingean was most likely easier to take considering that the local hurling club had all but died out by then.

     A second reason why the club entered a lean period after 1916 is because recent research has thrown up that a huge number of the team that lost the 1915 junior football final became more involved in the independence struggle at this time. Many of the players became involved in the Sinn Féin branch in the town while the following list names those who served in the local GAA. These included Charlie and Ned Hayes, Denis Finlay, John and Ned Greene, Jim Brien, Pat Lynch, Nicholas Bolger, Mick Crystal and brothers, John and George Grace. While IRA activity in the Daingean area was not notable for spectacular ambushes, the local RIC barracks in the town and at Mount Lucas was attacked during this period. It should be noted as well that the British army did have a small garrison in the town which certainly helped to curtail IRA activity because of this involvement with the IRA the players above did not have the spare time for GAA activity that was needed to push the club forward. It is not totally a surprise then when one learns that the club had no representative at the 1917 Offaly GAA convention and the Midland Tribune reported that the junior side failed to fulfil this first round fixture in the next year’s championship.

     The club was spread embarrassment late in August 1918 when it managed to field both a senior side (against Ballycommon) and junior side (against Geashill) in compliance with the Central Council directive that all GAA units had to take part in games in what became known as Gaelic Sunday. This nationwide set of games was in response to the British Authorities insistence clubs having to seek permits for the holding of matches. This decision was in part designed to check the growth of Sinn Féin Central Council organised Gaelic Sunday in a blatant act of defiance of this request and the press reported that upwards of over 5,400 players took part nationwide making the day a glorious success. Sadly the two local Offaly papers do not list the names of the players on the various teams who fielded that Sunday in Offaly and one suspects this may have been because of the press censorship directive in operation at the time.

     Despite fielding two teams on Gaelic Sunday, this did not mean an immediate upturn in the club’s fortunes. Daingean failed again to take part in the 1919 championship and after drawing with Clara in the first round of their 1920 tie, the team showed its lack of practice in the replay by failing to score in the whole match. As the country sank deeper into the War of Independence no championships were completed in 1921 or 1922. It was only after the Civil War ended in May 1923 that field activity could start up again when Daingean took on Rhode at the pitch in St. Conleth’s that August. The local correspondent looked forward to the event claiming that ‘there had been no match in the locality of any description for nearly three years’. This is probably one reason why a large crowd turned out to cheer the local club to victory and even though the team lost the north Offaly final to Killeigh, in September the end of strife and national conflict meant that the chance to rebuild the club and country could now commence once again.

    The research for this article depended heavily on the files of the county’s two Nationalist newspaper from this time, namely The Midland Tribune and The Tullamore and King’s County Independent; sadly no minutes of Daingean club meetings or photographs teams from this period have survived. A trawl through some County Board minutes in the OHAS shows no major points of reference for the Daingean club while the monthly RIC police reports from 1913 to 1921 don’t add any materials of note about the club’s struggle at this time either. The author would welcome any reader with material not unearthed to date that may be lying in some attic or if anyone has photographs of Daingean players on teams to contact him, on any member OHAS regarding same.

    Sean McEvoy        

    February 22, 2023

  • Planning for a new central Tullamore. By Fergal MacCabe. Knowledge-based support for creativity and innovation. Blog No 465, 18th Feb 2023

    ‘The Beaujolais’

    Sometime in the 1830s, the architect William Murray (1789-1849), best known for designing mental hospitals all around Ireland, presented a quick outline of a new public square in Tullamore which would be bounded on three sides by fine houses and dominated on the fourth by the imposing portico of the recently erected County Courthouse. 

    The title of his drawing’ Thoughts for a Square at Tullamore, Ireland facing the Courthouse to be called ‘The Beaujolais’ suggests that it was not an actual commission but more likely a broad brush and quickly executed response to a remark by Lady Beaujolais Bury the wife of the local grandee, perhaps exchanged at a social gathering. Architects do this a lot to get business and Murray may have been trying to reconnect commercially with the family who had given his cousin Francis Johnston such valuable and prestigious commissions as Charleville Forest and St Catherine’s Church.

    Of course Murray’s elegant scheme was never realised and was to be the last proposal for a civic design set piece in Tullamore for some time. In the 1950s, the urban planner Frank Gibney suggested the creation of a parkland setting for the Church of the Assumption but this notion was eventually shelved and for the following seventy years no further interventions which would combine coherent built form with public benefits were to be advanced and the planning of the town remained firmly in the hands of engineers whose principal spatial concern was the accommodation of the motor car.

    (more…)
    February 18, 2023

  • Crow Street/Tara Street, Tullamore in the past 200 years. A contribution to the Historic Towns Series. By Michael Byrne. Blog 464, 15th Feb 2023

    Now what would Edward Crow say if he came back 200 years after his death to view the street that he created in the 1800–1815 period. That was during the time of the wars with Napoleon and before Waterloo. After the war Pensioners Row (now O’Molloy Street) was built for the army veterans by the Crow family. Crow Street was on a grander scale but is now no more than a parking lot on one side and the other is occupied by the Town House pub building. This road off High Street was greatly widened in the early 1990s to facilitate access to the new Bridge Centre opened in 1995. About 90 residential properties have been built since the mid 1990s on lands beside the Bridge House carpark and on the long garden behind the Round House and its neighbours each side in High Street. Three of the four residences on High Street (west) now form part of the Direct Provision facility. Part of the old garden of the former Goodbody & Kennedy house on High Street was used as a site for the Central Ballroom/Garden of Eden in the 1970s. It was at the foot of Crow/Tara Street and was adapted for a cinema in the early 1980s. The dancehall/cinema was demolished in the late 1990s to make way for the Altmore apartments.

     In summary the  building boom of the 1994-2007 period saw the construction of:

    Tara Court, River Court and the old mill on the Tullamore river – 54 apartments

    Altmore House and large office block  – 36 apartments

    Altmore House at the foot of the old Crow Street. Crow Lane was, we understand, one of the names suggested for the new arts centre!

    Tara Court and River Court were built on Tullamore distillery lands known as ‘the turf field’ and Altmore on the old Crow estate property. Who was Edward Crow (or Crowe) who gave his name to this former residential street of what were mostly quality houses.

    (more…)
    February 15, 2023

  • The shooting of Jack Finlay of D.E. Williams, Tullamore, in a robbery at Lemanaghan, Ballycumber, County Offaly on 12 February 1923. By Jackie Finlay. A contribution to the Decade of Centenaries. Blog No 463, 11th Feb 2023

    My story starts as a small boy growing up in Dillon Street, Tullamore in the 1940s. I remember seeing a cutting from a newspaper which I presumed was from a Tipperary weekly paper. The article covered a report of a feis and sports held in a field at the Golden Vale Hotel in Dundrum Co. Tipperary. It mentioned about the Misses Crummy from Ballydine taking part in the Irish dancing. A small report on the opposite side of the cutting was headed

    Shooting near Birr.  Charged at Birr with conspiring in 1923 to kill and killing John Finlay, Tullamore.  Chas and Peter Molloy and Michael Coyne were sent for trial.

    What is so unusual about this paper cutting from 1923?

    My mother, one of the Misses Crummy mentioned in the article, was now working in Tullamore for T. English & Co. She met and married my father Thomas, brother of John Finlay some ten years later.

    (more…)
    February 11, 2023

  • V.S. Pritchett on disturbed Ireland during the Civil War. A visit in 1923 reporting for the Christian Science Monitor and in 1966 for Dublin: A Portrait (1967). A contribution from Offaly History to the Decade of Centenaries. Blog No 462, 8th Feb 2023

    In Midnight Oil (London, 1971) V.S. Pritchett (1900-97) describes how The Christian Science Monitor sent him to Ireland early in 1923 to write about the Irish Civil War. The Anglo-Irish treaty had been signed, the Irish politicians split, and the two parties were killing each other. When Pritchett arrived the siege of the Four Courts in Dublin was well over and the fighting was drifting away to the south and west. In fact there was not much more than three months left before the Republicans decided to dump arms

    On a misleadingly sunny day on the first of February 1923, I took the train from London to Holyhead. In a heavy leather suitcase I carried a volume of Yeats’s poems, an anthology of Irish poetry, Boyd’s Irish Literary Renaissance, Synge’s Plays, and a fanatical book called Priests and People in Ireland by McCabe [McCarthy, 1864–1926, published in 1902], lent to me by a malign Irish stationer in Streatham who told me I would get on all right in Ireland so long as I did not talk religion or politics to anyone and kept the book out of sight. Unknown to myself I was headed for the seventeenth century.

    The Irish Sea was calm—thank God—and I saw at last that unearthly sight of the Dublin mountains rising with beautiful false innocence in their violets, greens, and golden rust of grasses and bracken from the sea, with heavy rain clouds leaning like a huge umbrella over the northern end of them. My breath went thin: I was feeling again the first symptoms of my liability to spells. I remember wondering, as young men do, whether somewhere in this city was walking a girl with whom I would fall in love: the harbours of Denmark gave way to Dublin Bay and the Wicklow Hills. The French had planted a little of their sense of limits and reason in me, but already I could feel these vanishing.

    (more…)
    February 8, 2023

  • 2023 will be remembered as the year in which Tullamore tried to reinvent itself: the Dream Team. By Fergal MacCabe. Blog No 461, 4th Feb 2023

    Last year Offaly County Council and Waterways Ireland appointed advisors to prepare regeneration plans for the town centre and for the Grand Canal Harbour at the heart of it. The consultants brief required ideas for the redevelopment of the key underused sites, proposals for linking them all within a coherent, livable, safe and attractive town centre whose crowning glory would be an accessible Harbour containing dramatic new buildings full of vibrant day and night-time attractions. A date in mid to late 2023 was set for the delivery of their proposals.

    (more…)
    February 4, 2023

  • A rare item for Offaly Archives: Hibernian Magazine for the year 1785. By Michael Byrne. Blog No 460, 31st Jan 2023

    Offaly History have a vacancy for a qualified archivist at Offaly Archives (see our blog of 6 Jan. 2023 in regard to the post). Arriving for interview by air balloon would strike a chord. Speaking of which the balloon fire of 10 May 1785 is perhaps the best-known event in the history of Tullamore and yet there are few surviving accounts.

    First there were almost no local newspapers serving the midlands at the time. Neither have diaries or letters survived of any of the townspeople of that period save one letter of 12 May 1785 published by way of reportage in the Hibernian Magazine of the fire that occurred on the fair day. This would have been on Tuesday 10 May 1785. The letter from the Tullamore correspondent is clearly the most useful and more informed than similar reports in Finn’s Leinster Journal and Faulkner’s Dublin Journal. Some of these reports put the loss at 130 houses and not 100 as advised to us by the letter writer. One other short note was penned by Molly Burgess (née Pennington) of the Methodist Community who lost their church (dated to 1760) in Swaddling Lane off Barrack/Patrick Street. This lane was also known as Ruddock’s Lane and post 1905 as Bride’s Lane. After the fire the Methodists build a new chapel or preaching house on the site of the present-day church. The current church was build 101 years after the first

    on that site.

    (more…)
    January 31, 2023

  • Offaly in the Grand Canal Company minutes, 1900-1950 with special reference to the 1911-23 period. By James Scully. Blog No 459, 28th Jan 2023

    Growing up on Clontarf Road, Tullamore, on the banks of the Grand Canal in the 1950s and 1960s I spent many childhood hours playing beside the canal. This was where my father’s family had lived for generations in East View Terrace before he and several of his siblings had acquired houses in Frank Gibney’s new state-of-the-art housing on Clontarf Road. In early teenage years I took to walking the canal line and ventured to Kilgortin Mill and Rahan, where my mother’s people, my grandfather and uncles and a multiplicity of cousins, lived. Not surprisingly the canal got under my skin if not indeed into my bloodstream.

    Hiking west from Tullamore the ‘canal line’ took us to exotic locations: The Metal Railway Bridge and slow-moving trains, the inaccessible Srah Castle, Molloy’s Bridge for in-season snowdrops and horse chestnuts and the hugely impressive six-chimneyed Ballycowan Castle, overlooking the imperious and impervious Huband Aqueduct. Rambling east towards Cappancur we soon explored in detail the small aqueduct which seemingly miraculously ushered the Barony River under the canal and were further allured by the rotundity of Boland’s lockhouse and a lock manned by a team of sisters. Graduating to the bicycle we set out along the towpath for far-flung towns and villages: Ballycommon and the Wood-of-O, the Kilbeggan Branch, historic Daingean and the outré but warm and welcoming church at Pollagh.

    Grand canal from the 27th lock at Cox’s Bridge, Tullamore about 1910
    (more…)
    January 28, 2023

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